Unzipped

Douglas Keeve's 1995 documentary follows the fashion designer Isaac Mizrahi preparing a collection. The stretch from first idea to runway is recorded, with sketches, fabric choices and fitting rooms given equal weight. The appeal is Mizrahi himself. He talks constantly, describes taking inspiration from old films and hides none of his indecision; the camera moves with him and there is almost no distance. The film uses different film stocks together, setting black and white passages against the colour of the show. Figures such as Naomi Campbell and Kate Moss show the fashion world of the period. Who it's for: those who like fashion history and documentary about a process of making. Who it's not for: viewers expecting a documentary critical of the industry; the film stands beside its subject.